Mom would have been 101 today, and the amaryllis she received more than seventy years ago is blooming again in my home. It’s the coral variety I’ve seen in Hawaii, the one that keeps its leaves and stays bright green all year long. It reminds me of her: vibrant, enduring, effervescent.

Instead of simply staying in Mexico this year, Margaret and I decided it would be fun to visit Belize, just south of Quintana Roo.

My trip began slowly. There was a sick passenger on my flight who, for reasons unknown, took ninety minutes to disembark. By the time I finally landed, I found Margaret waiting patiently. We took a cab to collect our rental car and arrived in Akumal quite late. Despite having a unit number and entry code, the Spanish-speaking security guards made us wait another half hour before letting us in. You can imagine our moods by then.

Still, we spent two lovely days enjoying Akumal, a cenote visit, a beach day, and dinner at the Beached Bikini Bar & Grill, which has sadly declined since Covid. In fact, much of Quintana Roo seems to have followed suit; prices are now comparable to what you’d pay in Canada.

We drove south, returned the rental car in Tulum, and took the ADO bus to Chetumal, not the most appealing city, and later we learned, not the safest either. Our Airbnb was memorable for its single fork with bent prongs. One taxi ride featured a very cranky woman who repeatedly shouted, “¿Dónde está?” while we kept responding, “No habla español.” It was not our finest linguistic moment.

Fortunately, Belize was next, specifically Ambergris Caye. Our little beach cottage in San Pedro was absolutely charming (I’ll post a photo on my Nuttier than a Fruitcake Facebook page). On the morning of our departure, we discovered there was no water due to a main break affecting the entire street. You truly don’t appreciate water until it disappears.

We visited Caye Caulker, which, like Ambergris Caye, is ruled by golf carts. Add motorcycles and the occasional car and you have quite the traffic ballet. Lobsters were being grilled right on the beach, but having just eaten breakfast, we assumed we’d find similar stands in San Pedro that evening. We did not.

One unforgettable highlight was snorkeling with enormous manta rays and nurse sharks. Hol Chan Marine Reserve is sadly overrun with tourists, much of it feels picked over, with fewer fish and little vibrant coral, but swimming beside creatures of that size was exhilarating.

Because we love ruins, we took the ferry and shuttle to San Ignacio. Lucy, our enthusiastic driver, gave us an education on Belize along the way. Did you know the Mennonites dominate the agricultural sector? We even saw horse-and-buggy Mennonite communities that looked straight out of another century.

Xunantunich, built by the Maya around 600 AD, was spectacular. Despite my fear of heights, we climbed El Castillo and were rewarded with a sweeping 360-degree view. An 82-year-old woman from Quebec was horrified by the lack of railings, but we’ve grown accustomed to the minimal safety standards at ancient ruins. We were careful, not dismayed.

Our San Ignacio accommodation was adorable and just a two-minute walk from the best restaurant I may have ever experienced: The Guava Limb Restaurant & Café. The food, drinks, service, setting, and ambiance were exceptional.

We also visited the Belize Botanic Gardens and explored Cahal Pech, small but fascinating ruins right in town.

Then things became complicated. News broke of cartel unrest in Puerto Vallarta, and Ted, our driver from Belize, had insisted we take a taxi from the Belize–Mexico border all the way to Tulum. By the time we were in the cab, Ted was long gone, and I handed over a substantial sum to Xavier, our driver, muttering, “Thanks, Ted.”

My conclusion? You can skip Quintana Roo — it’s now priced like Canada — and head instead to polite, charming, beautiful, and still-affordable Belize.